
Tired cabinets spoil a good space. Paint seems easy, but failure is costly. Refacing or full replacement might deliver more value. This guide shows clear choices for busy homes, villas, and hotels.
Painting is a quick facelift for solid boxes with light wear. Refacing swaps new factory doors and fronts for a tougher, cleaner look. Full replacement fixes layout, storage, and long-term durability. Compare cost, time, and finish quality, then choose the path that fits your space.
You will see the pros and cons in plain tables. You will also learn how one order can match colors across cabinets, countertops, and tiles. Keep reading to avoid rework and delays.
When is cabinet painting the smart shortcut?
A fresh coat looks tempting when budgets are tight. But paint fails fast in heavy-use kitchens. Know the rule of thumb before buying gallons.
Painting is smart when boxes are sturdy, doors are flat, and wear is light. It is risky where heat, steam, or grease are high. If more than a third of fronts are damaged, paint will not hide it. In those cases, refacing or replacing saves time and frustration later.

What to check first
- Structure: Boxes must be square, dry, and free from swelling.
- Surface: Minimal dents; veneer intact; no peeling laminate.
- Use pattern: Family or commercial use pushes paint beyond its limit.
Red flags that push you to reface or replace
- Bulged particleboard near sink or dishwasher.
- Many cracks near hinges.
- Doors with deep profiles that trap grease.
A simple decision rule
If the cabinet shells are sound and style fits, paint can bridge 1–3 years. If the kitchen also needs hardware, color change, or easy-clean edges, refacing jumps you straight to a stronger finish. If the layout is wrong, only replacement fixes the core problem.
Do you need to sand before painting cabinets?
Skipping prep sounds fast. It often causes peeling. Good prep is the difference between a smooth door and a sticky mess.
Most cabinets need degreasing, scuff sanding, and bonding primer. Liquid deglosser helps, but light sanding still improves grip. Sand less on laminate, but still scuff. Clean dust before primer. Rushing these steps shortens the life of the finish.

Prep checklist
- Wash with a strong degreaser; rinse until cloth stays clean.
- Label and remove doors, hinges, and pulls.
- Fill dents; caulk hairline gaps.
- Scuff with 180–220 grit; vacuum and tack-cloth.
- Apply bonding primer; allow full dry time.
Why this matters
Paint sticks to primer, not to grease or polish. A clean, dull surface gives primer “tooth.” That is why even a “no-sand” kit still asks for scuff sanding. Skipping it leads to chips near pulls and edges within weeks.
Which cabinet paint and primer work best?
Too many cans make choices hard. The right system saves coats and time.
Use a bonding primer designed for glossy surfaces. Pair it with a cabinet-grade enamel or urethane-modified waterborne enamel. These level well, cure harder, and resist yellowing. Oil paints level nicely but smell and yellow. Standard wall paint is soft and stains.

Good pairing rules
- Bonding primer → waterborne enamel topcoats.
- Thin coats → better leveling and fewer sags.
- Light scuff between coats for grip and dust removal.
Application tips
Brush frames and use a 4–6 inch foam roller for large flats. Spray if you can ventilate and tent the area. Always keep coats thin. Thick coats trap solvent and stay tacky longer.
How long do painted kitchen cabinets actually last?
Expectations matter. Painted cabinets can look great at first. The question is how they age.
With good prep and quality enamel, painted cabinets can look good for 2–5 years in a typical home kitchen. In busy family spaces or light commercial use, expect 1–3 years before touch-ups. Edges, pull areas, and trash base doors show wear first. Factory finishes outlast field paint because they cure under controlled conditions.

What shortens life
- Steam and heat near range and dishwasher.
- Heavy cleaning with harsh agents.
- Soft wall paint used as a topcoat.
How to extend life
- Use harder enamels and proper primer.
- Add new pulls so fingers avoid painted edges.
- Allow full cure (often 7–14 days) before heavy use.
When does cabinet refacing beat painting for durability?
If boxes are sound but doors look dated, refacing shines. It swaps the parts you touch every day.
Refacing replaces doors, drawer fronts, and face frames with factory-finished components. It adds new hinges and pulls. It is tougher than paint because finishes are baked or UV-cured. It also updates style—shaker, slab, or fluted—without replacing boxes.

Where refacing wins
- Kitchens with good layout and sturdy boxes.
- Spaces needing easy-clean edges and durable satin sheens.
- Projects aiming for a two-tone look without full demo.
Limits to note
- Box interior stays the same depth and layout.
- Water-damaged shells still need replacement.
- Cost is higher than paint, though lower than new boxes.
What’s included in a cabinet refacing package?
Buyers want clear scope. A tidy package saves back-and-forth and mistakes.
Typical refacing includes new doors and drawer fronts, edge veneer or cladding for face frames, soft-close hinges, new pulls, and finish-matched filler pieces. Many packages add a sink front, toe-kick covers, light rails, and crown moldings. Some providers include minor box repairs and alignment.

Optional add-ons
- Roll-out trays and soft-close slides.
- Trash pull-outs and spice pull-outs.
- Under-cabinet lighting channels.
- Matching panels for appliance fronts.
Why packages help
Bundled parts keep the color and sheen consistent. That is critical if the design uses two-tone doors or a matched palette across cabinets, tiles, and counters.
When is full cabinet replacement the better investment?
Some kitchens need more than new faces. Layout and storage may be wrong for the space.
Full replacement makes sense when boxes are swollen or out of square, when the layout wastes steps, or when electrical and plumbing need a clean reset. Replacement unlocks deeper drawers, tall pantry pull-outs, integrated lighting, and new work triangles. It also aligns cabinets with new counters and splash without patchwork.

Signs you should replace
- More than 40% of doors or boxes are damaged.
- You need width or height changes that refacing cannot deliver.
- You want hidden channels for LED strips and power.
Long-term view
Replacement carries the highest upfront cost, but it often lowers lifetime cost because storage, lighting, and cleanup improve daily use. It also gives the best platform for a matching whole-house scheme.
How do costs compare across painting, refacing, replacing?
Money shapes decisions. A clear range helps planning.
Typical cost per 10×10 kitchen (indicative ranges):
Option | Materials | Labor | Total Range | Notes |
Paint | Low–Medium | Medium–High | Low–Medium | Prep drives labor; touch-ups likely |
Reface | Medium | Medium | Medium–High | Factory doors and hardware dominate |
Replace | Medium–High | High | High | New layout, drawers, and lighting add value |

How to read this
- Painting is cheapest up front but needs maintenance.
- Refacing costs more but gives a strong, clean result.
- Replacement costs most but enables layout gains and resale value.
Hidden costs to plan
- Extra time without a kitchen.
- Countertop and backsplash changes.
- Delivery, packaging, and site protection.
What’s the timeline for paint, reface, and replace?
Schedules matter for families and hospitality.
Typical timelines for a 10×10 kitchen:
Option | Site Work | Off-Site Work | Cure/Wait | Total Time |
Paint | 3–5 days | — | 7–14 days | 10–19 days |
Reface | 2–4 days | Doors made 1–3 weeks | — | 1–3 weeks + 2–4 days |
Replace | 4–10 days | Cabinets built 2–6 weeks | — | 3–8 weeks |

Practical tips
Lock dates for countertop templating if replacing. Protect floors and paths with heavy paper. For paint, avoid heavy use until full cure. For hotels or rentals, plan empty periods to avoid odor and dust complaints.
How do factory finishes compare to on-site cabinet paint?
This is the durability question behind many regrets.
Factory finishes use controlled spray, measured film build, and forced curing such as UV or bake cycles. They cure harder, stay smoother, and resist yellowing. On-site paint relies on room conditions. It picks up dust and often cures softer. This is why refacing or replacement looks new for longer.

Simple comparison
Feature | Factory Finish | On-Site Paint |
Hardness | High after cure | Medium |
Dust in film | Minimal | Common |
Yellowing | Low with modern systems | Higher with oil or heavy coats |
Edge strength | Strong | Weaker; chips at pulls |
Consistency | Excellent | Varies by room and skill |
Bottom line
Choose factory finishes for harsh zones and busy kitchens. Use field paint only as a short bridge or for gentle spaces like pantries or laundry rooms.
Do one-stop bundles reduce total project cost?
Buying parts from many vendors adds time and mismatch risk. Bundles can cut waste.
A one-stop bundle groups doors, boxes, counters, tiles, lighting, and hardware under one order. The palette matches by design. Shipping and packaging are planned together. This reduces back-and-forth, color drift, and site damage. It also simplifies warranties because there are fewer parties.

Where bundles save
- Design time: fewer sample rounds, faster approvals.
- Logistics: one packing list, fewer partial deliveries.
- Install: parts align; fewer gaps and filler trips.
Bonus
Bundles make two-tone and whole-house color plans easier. The same neutral can run through kitchen, pantry, laundry, and bath.
How are pre-assembled cabinets shipped globally?
Great boxes are useless if they arrive damaged. Smart packaging protects the job.
Pre-assembled cabinets ship in corner-protected cartons with foam blocks, edge guards, and moisture barriers. Doors and drawers are strapped. Each piece carries a barcode that matches the packing list. Pallets use straps and shock indicators. Photos of pre-assembly and packing help installers check parts fast on site.

Receiving checklist
- Count boxes against the packing list.
- Photograph any crushed corners before signing.
- Store level and dry until install.
- Stage by room to speed fit-out.
Why this matters
Good packaging slashes rework and delays. It keeps schedules true and labor efficient, especially when counters or appliances arrive soon after.
Conclusion
Pick paint for light refresh, reface for durable style, and replace for layout gains. Match colors across materials. Plan cost, time, and logistics early.
FAQ
Is it better to spray or roll kitchen cabinets?
Spraying gives the smoothest film and faster coverage. Rolling works for frames and small jobs. Use thin coats and a bonding primer either way for best grip.
Can you paint laminate or thermofoil cabinets?
Yes, but only after careful cleaning and scuffing. Use a strong bonding primer and light coats. Expect shorter life than factory finishes or refacing.
How much does cabinet refacing cost per linear foot?
Prices vary by door style and finish. Many projects fall between moderate to high ranges per linear foot once doors, veneers, and soft-close hardware are included.
Can you just replace cabinet doors without refacing frames?
You can, if frames are clean and color-matched. Many projects still need edge cladding or paint on face frames to avoid visible mismatch.
What is the most durable finish for kitchen cabinets?
Factory-applied finishes cured by UV or heat are usually hardest. Waterborne enamels with urethane add good durability for field work but still trail factory systems.
How long does cabinet refacing take from order to install?
Manufacturing can take one to three weeks depending on style. On-site work is often two to four days, with small punch-list items afterward.
Can you paint over varnished wood without stripping?
Yes, after degreasing and scuff sanding. Apply a quality bonding primer. Paint with enamel in thin coats. Stripping is only needed for heavy damage or waxed finishes.
What is the cheapest way to update old cabinets?
Clean and paint in a light color, then add new pulls. It is the lowest cost path, but it will not fix layout, storage, or water-damaged shells.